Snake Plant

Snake Plant: The Easy Bedroom Plant

The Snake Plant (now reclassified as Dracaena trifasciata) is a famously hardy houseplant. Tall, sword-like leaves with distinctive green and yellow striping make it an architectural statement piece.

Night-Time Breathing

Snake Plants use CAM photosynthesis: they open their leaf pores at night to take in CO2, which helps them save water. One plant exchanges far too little gas to change the air in a bedroom, but its tolerance of lower light makes it an easy bedroom plant.

Varieties

• Laurentii: Classic green with yellow edges
• Black Coral: Dark green with subtle banding
• Moonshine: Pale silver-green leaves
• Cylindrica: Round, spear-shaped leaves
• Whale Fin: Single massive paddle-like leaf

It was tested in NASA's 1989 Clean Air Study, which used small sealed chambers. At normal room scale the effect of a few houseplants on indoor air is negligible (what the research actually shows).

Allow soil to dry completely between waterings. Every 2-4 weeks in summer, every 4-6 weeks in winter. When in doubt, do not water. The thick leaves store water. Overwatering is the most common way to kill a Snake Plant — it causes root rot that turns leaves mushy at the base.

Extremely adaptable — thrives in everything from low light to bright indirect. Even tolerates some direct sun. Growth is faster in brighter conditions. Variegated types keep their coloring better with more light. One of the better choices for rooms with little natural light.

Well-draining cactus or succulent mix is ideal. Or add extra perlite and sand to standard potting soil. Drainage is the most important factor — Snake Plants rot quickly in heavy, wet soil.

Feed 2-3 times during growing season with balanced fertilizer at half strength. Very light feeder. No fertilizer in fall/winter. Over-fertilizing is unnecessary and potentially harmful.

Propagate by division (fastest) or leaf cuttings. For leaf cuttings: cut a leaf into 3-4 inch sections, let dry overnight, then place upright in moist soil. Roots form in 4-8 weeks. Note: leaf cuttings of variegated types lose their yellow edges.

Every 3-5 years — they grow slowly and prefer being root-bound. Their rhizomes can actually crack pots when very crowded. Use a heavy pot (terracotta is ideal) to prevent tipping from top-heavy leaves.

Mushy base/leaves: Root rot from overwatering — the most common killer. Remove affected leaves, let dry, and reduce watering.
Wrinkled leaves: Underwatering (rare). Give a thorough soak.
Falling over: Pot too small, soil too loose, or root rot.
Brown tips: Inconsistent watering or cold damage.